Category Archives: The First Adventure

Posts from the first overland trip in 2014

Interview: Slovenian vegans

Vegan Without Frontiers is not just about us traveling and enjoying ourselves, learning lazily about the world. We are on the road to promote veganism, to meet up with vegans in different countries, and to try and create a positive vibe and a good outlook for the future of veganism. On our route we went through Slovenia, and discovered that Slovenia has its own vegan society, called “Slovensko Vegansko Drustvo” which translates directly to “Slovenian Vegan Society”.

Created about two years ago, it seems to be getting increasingly more support and more members, and in return the society comes up with new and exciting events for vegans and non-vegans to attend and enjoy. As we drove through Ljubljana, we met Dani Susnik from the Slovenian Vegan Society and Nina Osenar from the “Drustvo za Osvoboditev Zivali”, translated roughly as Animal Liberation Society.

Happy vegans: (from left) Jonathan, Nina, Dani
Happy vegans: (from left) Jonathan, Nina, Dani

We expressed our surprise that there seem to be a lot of vegan, vegetarian and veg-friendly options considering the small size of the country. Dani and Nina didn’t share the same surprise:

Dani: There are perhaps a lot of vegan friendly, but not entirely vegan restaurants. More and more restaurants are opening, like the Loving Hut, and each year the vegan restaurants have more customers. You can see how the places become more popular in just a couple of years.

Leaflets from Dani and Nina
Leaflets from Dani and Nina

After the initial chat of getting to know each other and what we do, we started talking about more serious issues.

Jonathan: I think there was some suggestion in the UK press recently that this is the year veganism becomes mainstream.

Dani: I think it also depends on how we view these things. When we move in mostly vegan circles, we tend to think that there are a lot of vegans around.

Jonathan: Do you find that it really helps, mixing with other vegans?

Dani: Yes, and that is also the purpose of the Slovenian Vegan Society.

Nina: I don’t mix with too many vegans because of my job. I think it’s a good thing, because people are asking me about veganism, and I am able to tell people some recipes, or just what veganism is about. The meat-eaters can see that I am a normal girl, I am just like everyone else. There is nothing wrong with me just because I am vegan. I think it is important to mix with meat-eaters to educate them about veganism, because vegans already know a lot of things about the meat industry and animal suffering.

Jonathan: When you make the decision to become vegan, it helps when there are other vegans around to help you along the way. But if you then become isolated and just stick to other vegans, then you’re not helping other people along the way, are you?

Dani: There is no sense in preaching to each other basically.

Jonathan: It makes you feel good, but it’s easy and it’s lazy. One of the things we’re trying to say this year is that you don’t have to be vegan to make vegan choices.

Dani: I saw this notion promoted on the UK Vegan Society, but there were so many complaints from abolitionist groups, like “they say you don’t have to be vegan”, ignoring the “to like vegan things” part. I agree with what you’re saying. Veganism should be promoted in any way it can be. Everything you can say about veganism, everything positive, should be said either way. Even if one is not becoming vegan, or a “plant-eater”, because of ethics, at least they are not harming animals, and this becomes a good thing regardless. Slowly they will understand about ethics as well, and it will be easier for them to accept and understand the ethical side of not eating animals.

I asked Dani to talk more about the two societies that he and Nina belong to. The Animal Liberation Society has existed for about ten years, and they started out as a vegetarian group. The Slovenian Vegan Society is much younger, and started immediately as a vegan group.

Dani: I think an ever-growing number of people wanted to do something more for veganism in Slovenia, such as have events, have a website, and to share more information about the movement in general. We decided to make our own Vegan Society. We’ve had a lot of projects since then, such as the “Vegan challenge”, which is a challenge to be vegan for thirty days, which I think is very successful. You can subscribe to our website and get all the emails, and you can also get mentors. We also have festivals, and Nina’s society used to organize “vegetarian festivals” which served only vegan food but they didn’t want to be called a “vegan festival” because it is a taboo statement, as there is more prejudice against veganism than vegetarianism. Now we started having a “vegan fest” and we do this together with the Animal Liberation Society. What we want is to join vegans and different related groups as much as possible. I have observed that there are so many people who are willing to accept this choice, and they are just waiting for more information. I think we can do things together much better, like we did the last Vegan Fest together. It was very big, and people could see that there are so many vegans in this country. People start reading about us. For example, so many people are looking at different diets, like the paleo diet and so on. Why not write more articles about veganism as a projected diet, so when people search for new diets, they come across vegan diets, and perhaps get interested, and later learn about the ethics behind veganism as well. They can come into contact with veganism by whatever path. We don’t care how we are trying to make a vegan world, we just want to make it as soon as possible. For example, when we have events like “Vega Friday”, I talk to the manager at Loving Hut, and for that Friday they give 30% off on all vegan food. So many people come for cheaper food and then also for the lecture, and they hear about veganism and learn more. Every time we have some new people that come and talk to us afterwards. We are trying to be loud and we are trying to spend our limited energy to make a big impact.

One of the leaflets contrasts the beautiful pictures of animals with the abuse they receive
One of the leaflets contrasts the beautiful pictures of animals with the abuse they receive

We talked in depth about other issues vegans face, and of course, no vegan talk is ever complete without mentioning the film “Earthlings”.

Dani: Did you see Earthlings? I’ve seen it, but you know, I am not exactly watching it every day. I don’t have to see it any more.

Katana: I couldn’t watch it.

Nina: Me neither.

Jonathan: I actually turned vegan after the day of watching “The Animals Film”.

“The Animals Film” was an earlier film that was credited turning people vegan, but took a more subtle approach to make people think about our relationship with animals rather than simply shocking footage of what goes on in the treatment of animals for consumption. Katana stopped eating meat after literally clicking on a few websites and finding gruesome footage of industrialised animal farming online.

It was time to ask Nina about her Animal Liberation Society and her path to veganism.

Nina: I have joined this society about two years ago. I am an animal lover and have been all my life, but I was also taught that eating meat is normal. I was a vegetarian for ten years, and I am vegan for two years now. Slowly I developed this awareness about what’s happening, how to get my “milk” and so on. And finally two years ago I decided to join the society, I finally decided I’d had enough, I was going to be a happy herbivore from that moment. Since then I am trying to do my best to help the society. We did a great movie for Christmas last year. We chose some Slovenian celebrities, and joined them in the ad, and all the Slovenian television was airing it. It was so beautiful: we had a little baby pig, and in slow motion a hand was petting the pig. The celebrities gave speeches about warmth and love for Christmas, and how animals deserve the same, that they are our friends. This had such an impact on people. Even my Mom became a vegetarian, which is a big step for her. I was so happy about it, because it was so well accepted, lots of people were talking about it, some people became vegetarian, and some of them even vegan. We are trying to do our best, and this society is doing its best for a few years now.

At the end of the conversation we ate a hearty meal at the Loving Hut and Nina had some encouraging parting words for us and for every vegan.

Nina: We are basically trying to do our best in the most kind and gentle way we can. Being positive sometimes is very hard. Every day that I see the abuse of animals, and it gets to me and my heart. I start to feel emotional, I feel sad but then I pick up my good mood again and try to be a gentle and overall better person.

Eating at Loving Hut: (from left) Jonathan, Katana, Nina
Eating at Loving Hut: (from left) Jonathan, Katana, Nina

It’s a hard life we’re leading…

I am sitting in Croatia, right by the sea, we just saw a bunch of little crabs hiding behind rocks in the tide. And I have two band-aids on one finger, plus a red dot on my wrist and yet another bump on my head, and a slight burn on my other finger. This is what I call one of the best of Katana’s clumsy days. But let’s start at the beginning.

Last time Jonathan checked in, we were in Vrhpolje at a lovely camp site. On our “day off” in the valley (which apparently leads all the way to Milan! According to one local anyway) I decided to do some serious bit of exercising and hike up a few hills/mountains, leaving Jonathan to his own bits while I took the tracker for a walk. What I planned on was a marked path for about three hours. What I got was a 5 hour confused and slightly lost hike which mostly led me uphill through some very densely spider populated areas. I was exhausted, the weather was humid and hot, I kept running into spiderwebs, I kept getting on the wrong tracks and having to go back. Eventually I found myself at the next village north of Vrhpolje and walked down from there through the valley. Apparently Jonathan followed my route through the tracker the whole way and once he saw I was safely on my way back, he abandoned the idea of having to drive Troopy to rescue me, and instead had some wine. The hike was so hard that for two days my legs were out of order pretty much completely.

Picture up on a tree during my 5 hour hike
Picture up on a tree during my 5 hour hike

That night we went to the local pizzeria for a few beers and met a lovely English-speaking local man, probably a farmer, who told us fascinated (and long-winded) stories of the valley, why it was important during the Roman empire, and bits of other local trivia. As we said before, Slovenians are very lovely and friendly, always happy for a chat in whatever language, and most of them seem to know English to some extent.

The next day we had to say goodbye to the lovely campsite, its owners, the two Dutch couples who we shared the watermelon with, and the two English guys who came on motorcycles, and headed toward Ljubljana.

Ljubljana is very strange as a city. It seems to occupy a fair amount of space, but the “center” is very small, and you can walk anywhere you want to go quite quickly. On the other hand they seem to have a good bus system as well, and the geography is not too complicated. The first unpleasantness we encountered was from the campsite’s restaurant. I ordered a mixed salad, and asked if it had any cheese, and the waitress said “no, no, just vegetables, that’s all”. When they brought it out, the salad had “bird crap” on it, as we call it: creamy dressing. I was quite upset by this and tried to fish out the bits untouched but in the end gave up. Usually in this situation I would not say anything to the waitress but Jonathan prodded me, and so I did make a comment about how “I don’t eat dairy, milk products. I thought this was going to be just vegetables” but the waitress just apologized a bunch of times and nothing came of it. The result? Well, on the one hand, we are hoping next time a vegan comes and asks for a salad, she might ask them particularly what they want on the salad. The other outcome is that I should know better next time and not trust menu listings or waiters for clear information.

The sad salad covered in gross inedible dressing
The sad salad covered in gross inedible dressing

We spent the afternoon walking around Ljubljana, climbed the hill to the castle, and my legs were just killing. We found a vegan frozen cake cafe, which I didn’t see listed on HappyCow! The cakes were great, but we didn’t linger too long.

Vegan ice cakes!
Vegan ice cakes!

After a few hours of the city, I was ready to collapse. Still tired from my hike, my muscles not working, and having not slept the previous night, I felt dizzy and nauseous. Oh yes – the previous night there was a scary loud and wet thunderstorm, which kept me up most of the night, because I have a fear of lightning and thunder when I am not in a building – and sleeping in Troopy upstairs, well we get rocked around a lot and the wind and the rain are so loud that I was terrified and even spent some of the time underneath curled up in a sleeping bag, trying to shut out the noise. Also, our awning fell and almost broke. So we didn’t get much sleep. Instead of checking out one of the vegan spots in the city, we went home (Troopy) as I thought I might actually collapse. My mood improved somewhat by Jonathan’s wonderful cooking.

We got an extra day to spend in Slovenia, so we went to Triglav National Park, which is on the northwest side of the country, with the tallest mountain in Slovenia – Triglav – right in the heart of the park. We found a campsite that wasn’t too touristy, called Kamp Kamne. It was pouring rain but very beautiful scenery, sort of like the Alps but with less roads and less “Swiss”. The lady of the campsite didn’t seem too eager on our walk and told us “you can go see the waterfall but it’s raining and it will continue to rain so no”… which was a bit odd. But we got our rain gear on and decided to take on the rain, which incidentally stopped and didn’t rain again until we returned about 3 or 4 hours later.

We walked to Mojstrana and then instead of looking for the waterfalls, we went on a hike up the mountain, which didn’t make my aching legs feel any better. Of course, walking up a slippery road with no proper hiking gear is quite dangerous, and we ended up tumbling down, slipping and falling, getting all our clothes muddy and my shoes covered in bits of earth and leaves. On the way back Jonathan picked up some wild berries, and we didn’t even get poisoned from them.

Hike up a mountain in Triglav National Park
Hike up a mountain in Triglav National Park

Because it had been raining for days, we were unable to dry any of our clothes at all, so we had to carry around with us stale-smelling damp laundry and towels… not pleasant. Today we drove back to Ljubljana to meet up with Dani from the Slovenian Vegan Society and Nina from the “Osvoboditev Zivali” society (Animal Liberation – rough translation) for a chat and an interview. This meeting deserves its own blog post in the future – which we will do in a few days when I transcribe the interview.

We also looked in on two vegan food places in Ljubljana – Bobencek, which is a tiny little spot in the center with only two tables but lots of amazingly tasting food, and Loving Hut food stand, which had good food also.

Food ordered at Bobencek: soup of the day, falafel wrap and avocado sandwich.
Food ordered at Bobencek: soup of the day, falafel wrap and avocado sandwich.

After our lunch we drove to a new country – Croatia!!! And found a campsite right on the northern part of the coast and right by the sea. I mean literally by the sea – I am hearing the waves as I type this.

We went for a swim and strange things started happening. Both Jonathan and I felt weird things touching us / little stings while we swam, but neither confessed until later in the evening, when I had to dig out the medical kit for tick removal. I discovered a tick on my left wrist whilst walking on the campsite. A tiny brown and black thing, burrowing into my skin. I’ve never had a tick before, so I felt icky and interested at the same time. We tried the old methods – pouring alcohol, pouring oil. But then I googled it and apparently you’re supposed to just pull it out gently, not squeezing its tummy. Well, I pulled it out and cleaned the bite. After the tick incident we felt paranoid, so we confessed our weird prodding / stinging feelings in the water, turns out we both felt it but we have no marks on our bodies. Then Jonathan went through my hair looking for more ticks, which probably raised some eyebrows of the passers-by. Then we started smelling our hanging towels and the fleece blanket to see if the stale smell of wet clothes went away. This probably raised more eyebrows. All in all… a good day.

Crossing the border into Croatia!
Crossing the border into Croatia!

P.S. I am actually posting this the next day from a small coastal town after a third swim in the sea. We had no wifi prior.

Expectation

To start at the end, we are in Slovenia, and pretty much in love with the place. Whatever expectation we had of this country has been exceeded, from the relaxed tidiness of everything to the friendliness of the people we have met. As we sit on a tiny but superb campsite  in the Vipava valley this morning, surrounded by vineyards and overseen by the tall walls of the Nanos and Kovk plateaux, we are taking a day out from stuff to relax.

Troopy relaxing after a hard day on the road.
Troopy relaxing after a hard day on the road.

The contrast with the drive through the last part of Italy down the coast to Trieste couldn’t be more evident – the clear blue sea of the Adriatic had attracted the massed hordes of sunbathers and we were disappointed to have to give up on the plan for a swim due to the total lack of parking space. So we escaped the traffic and climbed up out of Trieste following a steep tramway, Troopy getting a good workout on the ascent towards the border. The disappointment was short lived, as we found this tiny campsite  in beautiful scenery, inhabited by just us and 2 Dutch couples, and Katana was particularly pleased to start understanding the local language again since it is close to Czech. This makes ordering beer her job.

Anyway, this is where we ended up, but we’ve done a few miles and had a few moments since we last posted from Pisa – where we were bad people and went swimming in the pool without bathing caps (we were scowled at), and took in the sights…well mostly the Leaning Tree.

DSC_2491edit

We took the long and winding road through the Apennines to Bologna – and for those of you who know how much I love driving mountain roads, this one was very long and very windy and I ended up feeling a little like I’d just stepped off a roller-coaster! So I will blame that disorientation for what we shall call the Midge-Fridge Delusion. I had a long and restless night, tormented by an invisible mosquito that kept buzzing around my ear. I swatted at it, wafted at it, blew at it and hid under my sleeping bag liner from it. But it kept coming back. I could hear it, felt it land on my forehead. Katana slept on – oblivious – but mossies leave her alone anyway which just added to the unbearable unfairness of it all.  I finally slept. It was only half way through the next day that I noticed the fridge makes a very similar (in fact identical) noise when attached to mains power and it dawned on me that the midge may not have been quite what it seemed at the time… One of us found this hilarious.

Anyway, after that we travelled on to Venice and spent a couple of afternoons wandering around the city, eating vegan soya ice-cream (Happy Cow is a great resource for finding these sort of things), and generally being tourists. On the way towards Trieste yesterday we pulled into a random roadside restaurant and were made a special dish of grilled vegetables, beans and salad rather than the cheese-free pizza or spaghetti we have become accustomed to.

 

Jonathan's seat put to better use...
Jonathan’s seat put to better use…

Then we enacted the plot to fill Troopy’s fridge with a giant watermelon from a roadside stall, so are now having watermelon for every meal and sharing it with the rest of the campers here at Kamp Vrhpolje. Time for a reduction in pace I think, and I can’t think of a better place for it.

Kamp Vrhpolje
Kamp Vrhpolje

 

 

Let’s go swimming!

I am starting to write this in a bit of a food coma. We are at a camping site, for the second night, in Pisa. On Monday we left the campsite in the Alps on the Swiss side and headed towards Italy, going up a mountain in the meantime and catching the few bits of snow still melting in the high altitudes. We stopped at a little spot with a bit of slanting snow, and I pranced around in the white (cold) slush and then climbed up higher where all the blueberry bushes grow. There were a lot of mosquitoes circling the bushes but I don’t think they minded me as much.

In the morning before we left the campsite I went for a little walk with my coffee and discovered that the little forested area that covered the campsite ground opened up quite suddenly to a quite deserted dried up river bank. This was an amazing view to the surrounding mountains, and I took this opportunity to do my first drawing of the trip.

Waking up to this
Waking up to this

We crossed the Italian border on Monday afternoon and parked in the town called Stresa, on lake Maggiore, for a little walk around and a cold soothing drink. I went down to the somewhat brown and unpleasant looking water to take my shoes off and walk around the slippery rocks for a bit to cool down my feet. We witnessed a very clumsy and stressed duck family, the mother duck kept losing her ducklings, and the scene made me very uncomfortable so after watching for a few I had to leave. I found another dead thing – a rotting fish in the water – for my “Katana’s dead nature studies” project.

Little duckling
Little duckling

I noticed that the mountains on the Italian side are so much more greener and covered in forests rather than have exposed rock like the Swiss mountains. I also noticed the sudden decrease in cleanliness and an increase in reckless – or weird and unpredictable – driving.

We found a campsite for Monday night just outside of Arona and right on the lake as well. After setting up quickly we had to go for a quick dip in the water, to cool down mostly and instead of using the showers, which we would have had to pay extra for. That night we were too lazy to cook dinner so we went for pizza (without cheese) and pasta (with unfortunate few specks of meat which I had to dig out… I am guessing it was cooked together with a meaty pasta). That campsite was full of Germans, and of course that night Germany played Portugal 4-0. The Germans were happy and mostly quiet and friendly. In the evening we decided to get the playing cards out for the first time. Since neither could remember any suitable game, we settled for Black Jack (with pretty much half made-up rules I think). Whiskey was taken out of course, and I got the cup which still had remnants of coffee, so I ended up with a coffee-flavored water-down whiskey. Not a good combination.

In the morning we swam in the lake again, as a wake-up and a morning shower, two in one. The water was a bit cold but still and lovely. We drove through Genoa on our way to what we thought will be Florence, but ended up being Pisa. In Genoa we had a very unfortunate start – the driving was insane, the parking place was invaded by some strange men selling pieces of colorful string as bracelets (for 40 euros as a starting price!). Jonathan managed to get away with giving them 2 euros for the sad piece of string they had already put on my wrist even though I was sternly declining. The incident made us uncomfortable and we didn’t want to leave poor Troopy all alone with those men. Eventually we figured it would be okay, and went to find a vegan place to have lunch, having googled “vegan Genova”. Very fortunate for us, we did just the thing! And what an amazing place it was, really. Cibi e Libri. Lorenzo, who served us, was very friendly, and we had a good chat about our adventure, he seemed enthusiastic and even gave me a little pastry present to go.

After the lovely food, we slowly trickled back down to Troopy parked by the port. Luckily, the car was untouched. Maybe I am being slightly too paranoid, or maybe I have had too many robbing incidents.

We started driving toward Florence, but it all turned sour for a bit when Italian driving and confusing tiny-lettered signs really did get the best of us. In the end, we drove to the outskirts of Pisa, loaded up our fridge at a supermarket, and found a campsite that seemed alright. On our way to Pisa, we stopped at a beach on the coast, and I had my first Mediterranean swim of the year! Or a few years, to be exact. It was wonderful, the water was only a bit cold, and once I swam out a bit further, I could see the mountains and the slowly setting sun. Bliss!

We sat up camp and here I am going to go into “what do vegans eat” because Jonathan made a really impressive chili! It had three types of beans, celery (my contribution), tomato paste, tomatoes, mushrooms and spices and such. Absolutely delicious. He made a whole pot so we had plenty for leftover burritos today, and that is why I am in a slight food coma right now.

To make this slightly more humorous, I wanted to tell about my unfortunate trials and tribulations of toilet use. (Yes I do have the LCD Soundsystem song in my head as I type this). Basically I seem to have been collecting amusing toilet stories. Here are a few: when we were at the Italian campsite two days ago, I managed to walk into a chemical toilet disposal cubicle instead of a normal toilet, wondering why the toilet seat was huge (is this a specific toilet for large people?). Then a strange encounter with an English lady at a cafe, I walked up to the door, the toilet was dark and slightly open. I pulled on the handle, it didn’t give, but I thought maybe the door is heavy. I pulled again, and out of the darkness I saw a face apologetically looking at me. After a few more minutes she came out. I don’t know what someone could be doing in a dark toilet with an open door, when the light switch was clearly marked and the light worked. Of course the latest episode happened today, when I managed to get myself stuck in a cubicle because the lock was stiff and wouldn’t open…

I think the lesson to be learned is not to expect much from foreign toilets.

Today we took the train into Florence and spent the day sightseeing, criticizing the tourists, admiring the seeming American tourist overtake of the city, and I got some art in, by visiting the Uffizi.

Lions in the Uffizi
Lions in the Uffizi

I think I like Italy. Tomorrow Pisa and then onwards to the next bit!

By the way, did you know you can send us messages through the map feature? And leave comments on our blog posts? Please feel free because we’re feeling a bit out of touch, especially without internet most of the time.

Dried Mushrooms and Happy Germans

This is a tale of 2 meals, disappearing mossie bites (finally), more thunderstorms, the boredom of motorways and silly IT mistakes that end up with late nights and uncomfortable tents…

It started with good intentions – we had a bag of dried shiitake mushrooms that we felt we couldn’t just throw away. The first night, barbecued in the pit, they weren’t so bad. But then we had the rest of them soaked overnight and used in the next day’s evening meal. I’m not sure whether the flavour of too many rehydrated mushrooms was the problem, or the rubbery texture reminiscent of slug…actually, I don’t think I’ve eaten slug so I might just be wild guessing there…but either way it was lucky we were sooo hungry that we at least got a good meal down us before abandoning the mushroom project to the recycling. After that I hope we can be excused for the particularly good meal the following night – 3 courses of tasty food (even if the leek and potato soup looked a little pondy, it was still delicious, and not just in comparison to spongy ‘rooms). Washed down with a glass of wine. 

Rock Castel
L’Orage

That brought our stay in St Michel to a close, and for me the beginning of the journey into the less well known. We had one last tour of the swimming spots in the Herault Gorge, stood on top of the Roc Castel in Le Caylar admiring the approaching thunderstorm until it struck me that…well, it might actually strike us, and then headed off via a quick dive into the waterfall at the Cirque de Navacelles.

Then came too many hours on the motorway – Troopy isn’t a fast and loose type and prefers to take his time getting places, which is all very well but gets a bit tiring for the crew, so by the time we rolled into Grenoble looking for supplies we’d had enough of the 3 lanes of tarmac for one day. Another push up the road towards Chambery found us a nice campsite for a brief night stopover though, and time to post the week’s photos. That however turned into a bit of a ‘mare as IT glitches, slow internet and fatigue-induced pilot-error ended up with 1 of us up at midnight keeping the other awake with unavoidable shuffling about and probably avoidable mutterings. The 16-yr old Jura came out at this point, followed by a trial run of the pop-up tent for emergency isolation.

Col des Montets
Col des Montets

But another day, another adventure! Yesterday we had a much more interesting trek over the mountains through Chamonix into Switzerland for an appointment with my old friend the Spider Bridge. I did my second ever jump from the 190m water pipe bridge and Katana’s friend Valentyn did his first ever from anywhere. Katana did a couple of zip wire trips across the valley and we had some good cheese-free pizza and found a friendly campsite, and some beers. Watching the World Cup on an outdoor TV under an umbrella on the campsite were a few Swiss types whose mood improved dramatically through the evening, and we were ably served by a jolly chap, in multiple languages. At some point in the day I also noted that all signs of the midge-mauling I received at Salagou have now gone, and my legs are back to their usual shape and colour. So I guess I am again a blank canvas for the insect world…and since we are now camped next to Lake Maggiore, right by a wide reed-bed, I’m a little nervous!

L'araignée
L’araignée

We got here today following the Orient Express over the Simplon Pass, even reaching the remains of the winter’s snow amid the alpine flowers, before descending into Italy for an early evening swim in the lake. The Germans on today’s campsite seem particularly cheerful for some reason…

La Neige en Ete
La Neige en Ete
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Une fleur et la cul d’une fourmi